No water and a silent pump is one of the most stressful home emergencies. Here are 7 causes in order from easiest to check — most are fixable in under an hour.
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Before anything else, go to your electrical panel and find the well pump breaker. It is usually a double-pole 240V breaker labeled "Well Pump" or "Water Pump." Check if it is tripped (middle position) or off. Reset it once by flipping it fully off then back on. If it trips again immediately, stop — there is an electrical fault that needs diagnosis. For general guidance on maintaining your private well system, see the EPA's private wells overview.
The most common and easiest fix. Reset once. If it holds, you're done. If it trips again, move to the next causes.
Most pump motors have a built-in thermal overload that trips when the motor overheats. Look for a small red reset button on the motor body (jet pumps) or on the control box (submersible pumps). Wait 20-30 minutes for the motor to cool, then press the reset button.
Open the pressure switch cover and look at the contacts. They should be closed (touching) when system pressure is below cut-in. Burnt, pitted, or corroded contacts cannot pass current. Replace the switch ($15-35).
With a multimeter, verify 240V is present at the LINE terminals of the pressure switch. If voltage is absent, the problem is upstream — check the breaker, wiring, and connections between the panel and the switch.
A failed capacitor prevents the motor from starting. Check the capacitor for a domed or bulging top. Replace it ($8-25) and test.
Inspect all wire connections at the pressure switch, control box, and any junction boxes in the pump circuit. A loose or corroded connection can interrupt power. Look for green corrosion, loose terminals, or wire insulation that has melted or been chewed by pests.
If all electrical checks pass but the pump still won't start, the motor itself has failed. Confirm with an electrician using a motor winding resistance test. A failed motor means pump replacement.
A well pump that won't start is usually caused by one of these in order of likelihood: tripped circuit breaker, tripped thermal overload on the pump motor, failed pressure switch contacts, low pressure switch set point, failed capacitor, broken wire connection, or a burned pump motor. Start at the breaker panel and work toward the pump.
Check the circuit breaker first — if tripped, reset it once. If it trips again immediately, there is a short or overload that needs diagnosis before resetting again. Some pump motors have a red reset button on the motor body — press it to reset the thermal overload. Wait 20-30 minutes for the motor to cool before resetting thermal overload.
A well pump breaker that repeatedly trips indicates an overload or short. Common causes: pump motor drawing excess amperage due to worn bearings or locked impeller, a wiring fault, a failed capacitor causing locked rotor draw, or a correctly functioning breaker protecting against a genuine motor problem. Do not keep resetting — diagnose the underlying cause.
With the pump off and system pressure below cut-in, open the pressure switch cover. You should see the contacts closed (touching). If the contacts are open, burnt, or corroded, they cannot pass current to the pump. A simple test: with power OFF, use a multimeter set to continuity and test across the LINE terminals while the contacts should be closed — no continuity means failed contacts.
An undersized tank causes low pressure, short cycling, and early pump failure. Check yours free in 2 minutes.
Use the Free Calculator →Standard well pump pressure switch, field-adjustable cut-in/cut-out range — a common replacement part for failed or worn switches.
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