Before assuming the pump itself has failed, work through the electrical path methodically — most 'dead pump' calls turn out to be a breaker, switch, or wiring issue.
Check whether the breaker is tripped, and if so, reset it once. If it trips again immediately, stop — that indicates a short circuit or a locked motor, and further breaker resets risk damaging wiring or the panel. If it holds after one reset but trips again later under load, that points to an overloaded circuit or a motor drawing excess current.
With power on, use a multimeter to check for incoming voltage at the pressure switch (should read your standard 230V, or 115V on some smaller systems). If voltage is present at the switch but not passing through to the pump wiring, the switch contacts themselves have likely failed or are dirty enough to prevent proper contact.
Safety note: Testing for voltage requires working with live 230V circuits. If you're not comfortable and experienced with this, this is a good point to call a licensed electrician or well pump technician rather than continue testing yourself.
If voltage reaches the control box but the pump still doesn't respond, the capacitor or relay inside the box is the next suspect — see our dedicated guides on capacitor symptoms and relay vs. capacitor diagnosis for the next steps.
If voltage checks out all the way to the pump's wiring and the motor still won't run, a megohmmeter (megger) test on the motor windings can reveal a grounded or shorted winding — this is typically a job for a well pump professional, since it usually means pulling the pump for replacement.