A 10-minute DIY check that prevents waterlogging, short-cycling, and premature pump failure.
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Every bladder-style pressure tank has a sealed air chamber that needs to hold a specific pressure — called the precharge — to work correctly. Over months and years, that air charge slowly leaks out, and when it does, the tank starts waterlogging: it fills almost entirely with water, the air cushion disappears, and your pump starts short-cycling. Checking and correcting the precharge is a 10-minute job that requires nothing more than a tire pressure gauge and an air pump.
Shut off power to the well pump at the breaker. Open a faucet somewhere in the house and let it run until pressure drops to zero — you'll hear the water stop and see the pressure gauge on the tank (if it has one) fall to 0 psi.
Look for a Schrader valve — it looks exactly like the valve stem on a car tire — usually on the top of the tank. Remove the cap.
Press a standard tire gauge onto the valve just like you would on a car tire. The reading should be 2 psi below your pump's cut-in pressure. If your pressure switch is set to 40/60 (cut-in at 40, cut-out at 60), your tank precharge should read 38 psi.
If the reading is low, add air with a bike pump, compressor, or shop air until it hits the target. If it's too high (rare, but possible after a repair), press the valve pin briefly to release a little air. Recheck after every adjustment — it's easy to overshoot.
Turn the breaker back on and let the system refill and cycle normally. If the tank loses precharge again within a few weeks, the bladder itself likely has a leak, and no amount of re-pressurizing will fix it — that points to tank replacement rather than a maintenance issue.
💡 How often to check it. Once a year is a reasonable interval for most households, or any time you notice short-cycling, pressure fluctuation, or a waterlogged tank. It's the cheapest, fastest diagnostic step before assuming you need a new pump or tank.